Rohan R. Rao

If you, as a climber, understand the basic principles of training, it will help you to formulate the best climbing training/workout routine.

These principles will allow you train more efficiently, effectively and to see results faster.

Snowflake Principle

This principle states that no two climbers are alike. I think everyone knows that, but because that is the case no two training routines should be alike as well. Your training program needs to target YOUR specific weaknesses, goals, strengths and must take into consideration any injuries that you have or that you have had in the past.

The best thing to do is to model a successful training routine and adapt it to your goals, weaknesses, strengths and injuries.

Specificity Principle

Specificity may be the most important of these principles for climbers to recognize. This principle states that the more specific a training activity is to a given sport—muscle group, work load, velocity and pattern of movement, body posture, and range of motion the more it will contribute to increasing performance in that sport.

That is a little bit of a mouthful so let me brake it down a bit for you.

For an exercise to produce any type of gain (i.e. functional strength, endurance, etc.) it must be really close to or even mimic climbing.

That is why exercises that involve actual climbing motions (bouldering, fingerboard pull-ups, H.I.T. Workout, dead hangs, etc.) are the most specific and will have the greatest transfer to climbing performance.

Overload Principle

This big daddy of training principles states that in order to increase functional capacity for exercise, it is necessary to expose the neuromuscular and cardiovascular systems to a level of stress that is more than normal.

You must overload your body and then let it recover. It is important that you let it recover as that is where you will see the results.

You can easily achieve this overload by doing the following; increasing the resistance and intensity, increasing volume, increasing the speed of training, or by simply decreasing the rest interval between burns/sets of climbing.

The best way of creating overload will depend on your goal for your training program.

Reference – Climbing for life

According to Oxford dictionary,

Climbing means Making way up or uphill, tree ladder esp. with hands, mount slowly. Climb up or climb down ie. Descent

Trekking means migrtation or journey with one’s belongings.

Trekking and hiking are often used interchangeably in the contemporary so called hiking and trekking fraternity without really knowing the intricate nuances.

Even when asked about interests and hobbies one would mention trekking, climbing and so on…. Without actually realizing that these two are completely estranged activities and the only point where they amalgamate is that some treks do require climbing skills…that’s it. So what exactly climbing offers is the question which pops up in our cerebrum..yeah.. and I am in a position to comment on it, only after attending a camp (God knows what led me to register..huh..) conducted by Girivihar, a club nurtured by few like minded individuals in Mumbai…(actually the club doesnt need any introduction amongst trekkers and climbers)

Girivihar had announced its 35^th annual rock climbing camp for the year 2006 from 24^th dec to 29^th dec. I was told about the camp by a very good friend of mine Mr. Dauji Saha, a RC 34 trainee and an instructor for RC 35. so after much apprehension about the concluding dates of my examination schedules, I registered for the camp.

A day by day account of the camp:

DAY 1, 24^th DEC

We were instructed to assemble at Belapur CBD bus depot on 24^th morning at 7.00 am, and so did I, infact the enthusiasm supplemented by the uncertainty of train punctuality (I shouldn’t be saying the latter esp. when my Dad is an railway employee…hahaha..) saw me reach there 30 mins earlier.

One by one came in the participants, irony was the fact that those staying nearest were the ones to drop in last..as usual. In total there were 9 trainees, now I wouldn’t mention the names and the stuff…after all as Shakespeare said, “Whats there in name” haha…

The eldest trainee aged 37 while the youngest one was a mere 14, a vast range you see… further bolstering the funda that age holds no bars for climbing…

So we moved on, the site for camping was at the foots of Belapur hills, not too far from the city, but the isolation and the feel was surreal.

About the camping site: the site comprised of few tents pitched in near by a water source, both potable water and for other purposes. The site was as clean as it should be and the task to maintain it clean through the camp was vested with the trainees. There were separate trash cans provided to prevent littering around.

After the morning tea and stuffs…the trainees were introduced to each other and to the instructors. Mr. Ranade, one of the senior climbers of the yesteryears gifted us all with his esteemed presence. The presence of the man was not only comforting but very informative as well.

The trainees were made familiar with rock climbing equipments and their usage. Ropes, harnesses, carabiners and all other stuffs were shown and explained about. Knot tying techniques were demonstrated and the rest was upto the trainees to practice the knot themselves….

The sun was right above our heads by now, we had a nice lunch.

The afternoon session saw the trainees being introduced to bouldering techniques and a few routes for bouldering. The trainees were adequately protected while bouldering with the necessary stuffs like crash mats and more importantly with proper techniques. Each trainee was provided with a pair of climbing shoes, conforming to their individual sizes and comfort.

the bouldering session just gave us a glimpse of what the upcoming days holds in its store for us…it was exciting though.

Before dark we made our way back to the camp site…followed by evening snaks and tea… light moments… few jokes cracked around… and suddenly a thundering sound of Bong, (as he is fondly called instead of Abhijeet burman) just…just shakes up everything..

“Tum logon ko kuch samajti nahi kya” … hahaha… everyone just gets under cover…

no..no ..doont be mistaken Bong isn’t a Hitler or sort, but is a very disciplined and more importantly a passionate and selfless climber…and above all a very good human..got to learn a lot from him.. Thank you Bong..

this followed by dinner..a few chirps around and then everyone just quietly creeps back in their respective tents to prepare for the next day…

DAY 2, 25^th DEC

The day actually begun very early in the morning for our liking… I guess that’s the reason why most of us see more sunsets than sunrises… but sunrises are beautiful as well.. the morning wasn’t hilly as one would expect in the month of December…it was pleasant..

Morning tea…and the routine chores…preceeded the jog and few stretching exercises.

We all (trainees as well as the instructors) warmed ourselves up for the task ahead. Day 2 was scheduled to sharpen our bouldering skills acquired the previous day. The fingers, for the first time in my life had to go through a new ordeal… at the end of the session all the trainees had sore fingers and some of them had a split too…

Lunch followed before we had our evening session of bouldering. Fingers taped..a new site… and the bouldering… all through we had a wonderful time..

Some routes were done with ease…some required some doing..while some are still waiting to be done… but the important point is the moves..the grips..the basics were learned…and that was the purpose I guess… of this camp

DAY 3, 26^th DEC

So, seeing sunrise was an integral part of our schedule, atleast till the camp ended…

Well, I want to mention that there is nothing in the world…like sipping onto piping hot cuppa of tea on a chilly December morning and waiting for the sunlight to hit upon the horizon…and thats what we did all these days in the camp…and it was beautiful..mystic.

So a jog…along the jogging tracks saw us sweated and warmed up…for a new day.

The day 3, was supposed to introduce us to the climbing techniques and actually climb.

The route was over a waterfall… a dry one though…

Well…the instructors made the route look easy… we all managed to do pretty well on the day… learnt a bit of belaying.. and… and.. climbing… and also more importantly..how to take a fall… did a couple of routes on the wall and also had an opportunity to be a belayer..top belay..top rope…

Well I will try to keep away from the terms and techniques in this write up… to summarize day 3..we had learned..climbing and belaying techniques…centered around sport climbing with safety being top priority… that’s the hallmark..

There is something called as top rope top belay, in which another climber/lead has already reached the top and then does the belaying from the top while the rope is also anchored at the top of the route…

Then there is top rope down belay, wherein the lead climber has climbed and has anchored the climbing rope at the top of the route, but the bealyer is at the base and belay is given from the base…

For lead climbing, there is no such stuff as top rope…because the lead climber himself has to carry the rope to the top as he climbs!!!

DAY 4, 27^th DEC

The first two days of the camp were like….hellllllll..where have I got myself in… just gone trough the gruels of the exams and stuck up…that too amounted 2000 rupees… 6 days sounded a looooooong time…. How were they to pass..???

And now waking up before the sun on the 4^th day… unzipping the tent flap… heading outside… the camp site filled my vision… and it dawned..so much less time was remaining… 6 days were just so very limited..so very less…

Morning chores..tea..stretching exercises as usual… and then… climbing and falling schedules.

Today, day 4, was reserved for climbing…sport climbing. The names would sound irrelevant to the reader, pardon me for that…but we were to climb bosch route..grigri route..and so on… let me tell you each of these names has some significance and a reason..that I am still trying to figure out….

climbing was a bit different..since.. there was no top rope..that is..the climber has to lead the climb…with belayer from below…

Clipping onto the quickdraws…anchoring…and stuff…was enjoyable…

Taking a fall was more so..fun..provided you have got the right technique to take the fall..

Had a wonderful time…

Evening session was as pleasant and fun as the morning one…

We practiced on the artificial wall at Bong’s home..yes he’s got an artificial wall..not of great height but sure does provide with many moves and holds to try out… at his residence…not too far from our camping site…

After a short stint or artificial wall..we were served by nice hot cup of tea and we made our way back to the camping site…

The camp site was a bit emptied by the tata-bye bye from our few instructors..

Franco..the name we heard from day 1 was the one..to fill this gap… was eagerly awaited on day 5…darkness creeped… good night time came…and we rested ourselves…

DAY 5, 28^th DEC

The day was actually a relaxer…a short rapelling and jumaring session was scheduled.

Both these two are purely technical stuff without really requiring us to burn our ATP’s.

Following morning session..some of our instructors were to leave..

Vaibhav Mehta, sandeep..packed up and were heading for Hampi..for a rockclimbing competition.. it was farewell time…and lunch time filled in the time before evening session. We had nice time rapelling in the morning session.

Evening session had its share of jumaring…which is quite a walk up a slope..wall..or slab..

We were quite excited for the day to follow..where we were to climb a 200 feet wall..called as chimney sweep… energies conserved for the same…

Dinner awaited as… had our platefuls…

Franco sir..came..and so did the plum cake…

Then came instructions from our beloved Bong..about the demanding nature of the chimney sweep..

Some were left anxious… good night..sweet dreams…

DAY 6, 29^th DEC

This was the day when we were supposed to do/attempt the chimney sweep route…

We all were pretty excited/anxious…and eager…yes..

We followed the same routine which had become a norm now…waking early…warm up..tea and breakfast and then the activitied scheduled for the day…

We made our way throught the bushes and a bit of scree to the base of the wall where we were supposed to start our climb from…the base of the chimney sweep..

Shyam Menon, an instructor.. was supposed to lead the climb..

All the trainees gathered at the base…ropes were uncoiled…. The climbers harnessed..and it was made sure that everything is just right..

Shyam Menon, the lead began the climb…followed by Vivek, Santosh and Pravin…

I wasn’t actually aware that it was these four who were to climb the enite route… I was under the impression that the all would be given a chance to attempt… but it wasn’t so..

We followed these four only upto three-fourths of the climb..from there we rapelled down… these four did the route and descended from the other side..

The final patch of the climb was a bit exposed and difficult… as the reason given by Bong for not allowing us to do the route … lack of time was another thing as told by some others.. really don’t know…

The entire climbing route..all through the climb was exposed to the scorching sun… the heat being absorbed by the basaltic rocks and radiated back..

We were like hanging on to a hot plate..

The hand holds were getting hotter…and difficult to hold on… the feet were like boiling inside those snugly fitting pair of climbing shoes.. the route wasn’t difficult (upto the level we were allowed to) but it was this alien and ardous conditions that was testing our endurance…

Rapelling down from there was fun and enjoyable to the core..

After getting back to the base of the wall..we replenished our lost fluids… breathed easy..

There we were joined by a photographer.. and a free lancer journalist..

Not to mention the person has also registered multiple enteries in the guiness book of world records for various feats.. had a talk with him..

And then descended to the camp site..

The day 6 of the camp was just fast wrapping up… with the bags being packed… the tents folded and placed back in their respective covers…the equipments being loaded back in the drums..

The camp site was soon disappearing … wrapped up..

The last 6 days had been a gruel…a pleasure… sweating out.. yet feel so very fresh.. quite a paradox.. but.. actually don’t have words to describe… may be my vocabulary isn’t good enough to express it..

It was a bliss to be there..learnt a lot…did a lot.. and the most important thing was that..even though we were feeded with information..basics… the urge to know more and learn more is never ending..

We shared good 6 days.. good 6 days of climbing….together were we.. trainees.. instructors… and nature.. all..

A bond lasting forever.. etched in my memories.. makes me feel nostalgic…