An exploration – Route completed after two decades

A memorable trek… Raireshwar-Nakhind-Aswal Dhond-Kudali
I have never been at loss for words for writing a treklogue ever before; but this one. This one is say is the best trek for me so far and still paradoxically I state that I dont find words to make a start. Simply because voacbulary is inadequate to describe the experience that we had on this trek. Still there has to be a log for such a wonderful journey..

Planting seeds…
The seeds were sown when we were first informed aboutt he inaccessibility of approaching Aswal Khind from Raireshwar via Nakhind. The thick forest and abandonment of the route owing to its rough terrain and long route made the route very inaccessible and wild. That was way back in June. October saw us visiting Raireshwar again and needless to say the challenge of inaccessible lured us to chase it. We did chase it against all the advices of villagers and successfully omppleted the route after nearly two decades without missing the trail. It was one of its kind experience.

Embarking bytes…
We were fourteen of us on the trek. Quite a fair number of those were relative novices and new to treks and wild as such. We embarked on friday – 17 th October 08 from Dombivli in a pvt vehicle. The smooth roads coupled with vacant lanes saw us quickly covering the distance and within no time we reached Kolad for the first tea break. Inbetween the journey was filled with some jokes, introductions, exchanges and lots of fun. Some dozed off in between, some kept their eyes wide open. A quick tea break at Kolad and we moved towards our destination again.

Road map…
We had planned to approach Raireshwar from Rairiwadi – via the Sambardara route. The road map was to reach Rairiwadi via Mahad, climb up the Varandha ghat and rach Rairiwadi . Soon after crossing Mahad we took Bhor road and within a short while began climbing the Varandha ghat. The twists and turn of the ghat made some of the tummies feel the sting. The curvy roads lured us for a bike ride through it, albeit kept for the next time. Enroute we came across Kavlya fort and soon after a short while we reached Rairiwadi. The expansive plateau of Raireshwar stared at us with a mighty pride and a majestic splendour.

Minor hiccups…
From Rairiwadi we were to ascend the plateau via Sambardara route. We were on track and made our way through the forest, along the paay waat. However, soon the paaywat was lost somewhere and we were finding one. The plateau of Raireshwar seemed close and after a bit of searching we began ascending a ridge falling from the top. Within 20 minutes we reached a dead end sort of thing. The ridge narrowed on either sides with steep slopes falling below and in front lay thick karvi bushes blocking our path. We were quick to realise that we had missed the proper trail, however instincts egged us to wade our way through the thick bushes. But we were really unsure if some of the new comers would really like to venture through such thick bushes, ducking and getting the itch with some kminon pricks. But then the other option was to get down and catch the proper trail, which would have costed us another hour and so we moved on. Some of us wade our way cutting and kicking through the karvi thickets, having to duck through the bush and inbetween thron pricks. It was a tiring to make our way through and after lot of efforts we cleared the thickets and reached an open plateau – the first step of Raireshwar. Here we came across the paay waat, which we had missed earlier.

Finding paaywat…
The opening allowed us to have a good view of the landscape stretching in front of us. The backwaters of Devghar dam, intervening hill ridges, green fields, stark blue skies in contrast and wonderful weather made for a perfect landscape and some group photos in the foreground. Soon after clicking a few dnaps we moved further. From this point onwards, it was not a difficult task to stickto the paaywaat and make our way to the top. Within next 45 minutes the simple trail led us to the top of the pleateau and the Raireshwar temple atop.

Atop Raireshwar…
There is a perennial source of water, a natural spring that flows from near the temple. The water source flows out through a rock carved structure in the shape of a cow and hence the name – Gaimukh – given to the same. We also visited the old and magnificent – magnificence not in structural terms, but with the significance associated and sheer ages that it has endured, built in rock giving it a dark and cool from inside. We paid our obeisance here and moved on. After replenishing our water stocks at Gaimukh we refreshed ourself with some theplas and choonda.

Majestic view…
One amongst all the Jangam families, Dagdu Jangam was doing arrangements for our lunch for the day – Nachni Bhakri, Mirchi Thecha, Jhunka and cool buttermilk. The menu is so mouth watering. While the preparations were on for this sumptous meal our group decided to do some sight seeing atop the plateau. We made our way to the highsest point on the top, which commanded a magnificent view all round. We could see Kenjalgad, Kamalgad, Koleshwar Plateau to our south; Rajgad and Torna to our north, Dhom and Devghar back waters adding up its appeal to the landscape. Strong breeze nullified that fact that we were exposed to mid day heat in October an the entire affair was nothing less than sheer pleasure. On our way back to Dagdu’s humble dwelling, the swaying of fields with the swinging blades of grass and changing hues just allured our visions. Raireshwar was such a pleasant experience for all of us.

Tasty lunch…
We headed to Dagdu’s place and had a nice filler with Nachni Bhakri and Jhunka; ofcourse buttermilk to top it all. We packed the same menu for our further journey. Our next route as planned was to descend the Raireshwar plateau from it extreme west end – Nakhind. Nakhind – actually means a hole in the massif; also called as nedhe. The route from Nakhind falls steeply into the KOnkan and leads to Kudali village. Nakhind itself is very obscure and difficult to approach. It is not seens easily and even after being seen it takes huge amount of efforts and time to reach there. Efforts includes physical and mental. Physical because it wears of our bodies to wade through the extremely dense thickets of forest cover, unduly ups and down of the unwelcoming terrain, intervening thorny bushes and overhead heat. Mental because the covering bushes makes it impossible to stay oriented to directions and move further in right direction.

Villagers plea…
Dagdu Jangam tried to explain all of this to us and continually persuaded us to follow the route to Kudali via Nivanjan village – the easier and much simpler route that the villagers follow – a well marked trail. However, we had something else in mind. The diffuclty of the terrain saw us left with no villager prepared to show us the route. Dagdu requested one villager to help us upto some extent. The baba agreed to accompany us; however for all the short while he accompanied he just recited one thing – Don’t go, please don’t go; there is no route, very thick forest, wild animals, difficult patches and since no one has gone there for last 20 years the route is non existent. He said that he himself had done thre route but that was more than 20 years back. He was tirelessly dissuading us from that route, but we were just so hell bent of taking on that route that all his efforts were on deaf ears – we were far from adamant mind you and tried to explain him that if we do not find the route we would return back to the village for the shelter. With diffused thoughts he bid us farewell from a point. We could see the extreme end of Raireshwar from this point which falls steeply into the plains below. Just before that there was a small elevation behind which lay Nakhind the baba informed. Our route was to descend into Konkan from behind Nakhind. Nakhind was no where to be seen and in front of us lay a vast, barren, expanse of dense forest where no human soul had ventures for decades. It was total wilderness, total isolation. A kind of aura surrounded all of us and we really did not know what lay ahead for us. But we were prepared, atleast we thought so.

Loners in forest…
Baba returned back from the point and we went ahead, ventured further. The knee length grass fluctuated in height sometimes climbing up to opur shoulder leves, some times diminshing to ankle heights. As we moved further we realised the wilderness of the region, the forest cover grew thickers, and even covering us overhead, sometimes thorny making us duck and kneel underneath the bushes to move further. What seemed near on the vast expanse in front, was actually very far away and the illusion of nearness was soon washed away as we treaded on the soul-less terrain for hours together only to find a huge expanse lying in front still waiting to be covered. The thick forest made the speed extremely slow, sometimes disorienting but the elevation lying in front – behind which lay Nakhind was our guide. We moved further, sometimes through thick forest and sometimes thorugh open lands to reach the base of the hump. Here was a respite – a continous walk of two and half hours through demanding terrain had already drained us to an extent. The heat overhead was contributing to weariness too.  The respite came in the form of pure, sparkling stream that quietly made its way on the barren plateau.  We replenished our dehydrate tissues and cooled our souls. It was 4.00 PM by now and Nakhind  was no where to be seen for long distances. To compound our problems the forest lying in front was thicker and denser than we had encountered so far. Vijay started feeling the pinch of  long day and crapms caught him jeopardizing our already crawling speed. Everything just made a perfect recipe for a night in the jungle.

Racing against the sunset…
We still had couple of hours to go before the sunset and we wanted to utilise it to our benefit. Vijay managed to move with his cramps getting better and we inched further. Soon we found ourself covered in the thick bushes, thorn again pricking and making its way through the thin fabrics that covered our skins. The sunrays were skillfully blocked by the engulfing thickets and we could see the sun departing slowly but surely. A small wade through the thickets and a small respite with a clering greeting us. Another hump lay in front, another ascend another forest cover to encounter and another battle waiting to be fought.  The best thing was the fact that all the fourteen souls wer actually thrilled at the challenge and enjoyingt o the fullest, the seemingly ordeal task that the narration suggests was actually a joyride for all of us with intermediate jokes and cracks to lighten up the sprits and weary souls. In between we came across a scree filld on the edge traverse and on our left lay deep and steep valley. We were careful to negotiate the small scree stretch safely. We decided to move up into the thickets away from the edge.

Night on the edge of the valley…
The last patch through the thickets really tested my patience as I mercilessly kicked through the Karvi and throny bushes to make it to an open clearing. We were actually on the fa edge of the plateau. After 4 hours of long and tiring walk we were still on Raireshwar, albeit on its wetsern edge. It was 6.00 PM now and we decided to call it a day off. We reached an opening, a small one. Stream flowing near the edge and falling over the steep precipice in to the Konkan. In our front lay Chandragad which oriented us well to the direction and the sunset was a treat not to b missed with its typical ‘tambda’ shades adding wonder to the setting landscape. We quickly settled over the edge, made a clearing, collected some firewoods, arranged for the dinner perparations and not long before we completed everything it was dark already.

Khichadi and bhaji…
I had a long day and was really tired to look into the kitchen matters. I made a quick tea-biscuit preparation for everyone. Further ahead I retired away from the stove. Kanchan and few others took the initiative and made it for a wondeful dal khichadi and rassedar kanda-batata bhaji, with pickles and some papad to savour. While all this was being done some of us had a quick nap. Dinner was ready, stars overhead glittering, the cold in the ambiance growing and hunger in our tummies spiralling. The khichadi-papad was savoured by all, but still a lot was remaining. That was to be our breakfast for next day.

Starry open skies camp…
Everything was done, sleeping bags abd bedding set and all the fourteen souls lay in open, under the starry skiy, valley on our right, Konkan below, Chandragad looking at us and for a brief while the rain cludes threatening to spoil our dream camp. Before long, eyes wide shut and a good night welcomed us all. It was a fairytale camping experience.

Early start…
Sunday had an early start. Slowly but surely everyone was awake by 6.30 AM, chills still permeated the ambiance and everone was slow to sneak out of their blankets and shawls. I refreshed myself and took the charge for preparing hot tea. Within no time tea was done, and in the meanwhile everyone was up and fresh waiting with their cups for the piping hot tea. Tea biscuits, bread jam made for a good light breakfast and the khichadi leftver from the previous night made a good filler. However some of the adamant souls did not want the Khichadi and they felt the pinch later in the day, not much though.

Negotiating Karvi bushes…
We moved up the small hump that lay overhead us and the start set the tone for what was to follow later – a similar tale – dense dense forest. On the top of the hump we could see Nakhind – and to our displeasure it was quite some distance away. A c-shaped valley separating us waiting to be traversed. The edge was full of scree and so traversing from the top of the ridge was safe alternative. We did scramble our way to the top through the Karvi forests and thorns. On the top of the ridge an expansive landscape welcomed us – for a short while before reentering the thickets. his time it was an unending one. Thicker, denser, a bit disorienting and more tiring. It was 10.00 AM now, getting hotter and we reached an edge. It was not deep fall, but very steep for sure. I made a scrambling descent, over the wet mud and Karvi bushes making a trail. Other followed the suite and a joyride for most – soiling their pants was not an issue for most of them. The gradient was nearly 80 degrees and the soil cover ensure a slipper tread with fun filled descent. Nakhind seemed nearer, it was not to be seen though. In front lay another hump and another forest waiting to be traversed. The sequence seemed unending. We entered another one, oriented well to find way to Nakhind.

Forest getting denser than ever… Frustration creeping in
This one was denser and merciless than the ones encountered before, may be because we had already endured a lot and our bodies were demanding rest, an improbable demand. We negotiated it for long and endured the Karvi bushes once more, but we could not bypass it. We were still surrounded by dense forest. Ducking, bypassing, avoiding but still engulfed inbetween the bushes. Karvi gave way to denser hrubs, thorns and intervening Khaj Khujli leaves, further wearing our bodies. The thicker shrubs made it double difficult, tiring, disorienting. It was 11.00 AM now and four hours since the start of our day. Fun was rapidly being replaced by a bit of disillusionment and frustraion and in some the typical dialogue of  - “Me sangitle hote na apan ithun nako jayla” began to creep in the scene. Some even contemplated the point of returning back, which I believe at that point in time was not realistic. The opposing hill range across the valley was very much the guiding star and some of us who lead the way always knew where we were heading. We never seemed to be lost or disoriented however thic the forest was. But the ordeal of wading through it made some of the others a bit frustrated and psuhed them on the brink. To compound further we rached an edge and in front lay a deep valley. According to the map we were in the right direction, but route was not to be seen and an unwelcoming gradient and deep valley stretched in front of us.

Finding the route…
It was time to take the initiative and myself and Mandar decided to carefull traverse the edge of the valley through the slopes amidst the bushes. We ventured ahead to find the route. To our right lay the valley and we were traversing it on the edge, Karvi cover made a safe leeway, and sometimes treading too close to it made us realsie that we must stay away from the edge. In the front lay a mountain mass and inbetween that mountain mass and us lay stream. I was sure that we somehow had to reach the stream inbetween the two mountains and follow the stream route till the base. Carefully along the edge we made our way to the stream. It was nearly 12.00 clock by now, 5 long hours since we started and we reached the stream. A water source greeted me and Mandar. We quenched our thirst and looked at the stream route. The stream route seemed feasible and was a welcome change from the frustrating Karvi thickets that we had endured for two long days now. We decided to take this route till the base. We went back and calle dthe rest of the team to floow us till this stream carefully. It took some 30 minutes for everyone to reach the stream and everyone was so glad to see water source, flowing water and respite from the Karvi bushes. The stream route seemed feasible for all and we could see the village below. According to orientation and map we were on the correct trail and we were sure about it.

A sense of achievement…
We had reached Nakhind, crossed it and started our descent from the other side of Nakhind. It was a huge thing for all of us – since one and all whom we came across prohibited us from venturing on the trail, and informed that it is “IMPOSSIBLE” to reach Nakhind, leave aside descending into the Konkan. We had already achieved half of it and were on our way to do the rest – the impossible descent – according to them.

The stream route…
Everyone quenched their thirsts in the cool flowing water, orange juice, some snacks and a zeal to move further. Frustration which clouded their thoughts some 45 minutes ago was rapidly replaced by joy and fun. Moving further soon in a short while we came across a rock patch. The patch was not to be done without rope since it was all wet and slippery. We had carried a 100 feet rope coil with us and for the first time it was to be put to use. The rope was uncoiled and one by one bowline around the waist ensured quick descent over the slippery patch. The last one on the u-loop around a solid tree allowed me to descnt safely and we moved further. The patch consumed around an hour and further boulder ridden route ensured slower descent. It was already 4.00 PM now ad the village although seemed near was slowly disappearing in the setting light.

The exposed patch…
Some steep and slippery patches were encountered one after the other in the stream route and it slowed down the speed to a large extent.  Increasing hurdle took new forms and an exposed traverse with a deadly fall blocked our path. The fall was around 25-30 feet high with a deadly ground with boulders and stones. Water was gushing over the exposed traverse and small holds with slippery rocks made the traverse a risky affair. Amod and Vinita were at the end of safe route and ceased their movement ahead gazing at the exposed route. Devendra, Mandar looked for other alternatives over the ridge but to no avail. I unloaded my heavy sack and had a look at the traverse and my gut instincts made me think that even though risky it was doable. I am not the one who takes undue risk and still the instincts were quite surprising for me. My hunters, already the sole had given away to a flapping grip and on wet rocks nothing seemed more slippery than the rubber lining my hunter. Still the traverse seemed probable and without second thought I made the moves and crossed over the patch in few seconds. On completing the traverse the rick undertaken was more clear and I forbade anyone from following me. Amod followed me with a bowline round his waist and Mandar followed the traverse with a rope for support. Bot actually did well and rope was just for a psychological support, safety I feel.

Finding alternative…
The traverse was too exposed for everyone else and it would have taken a lot of persuasion and support for everyone to clear it. So we had to look at other alternative. We foind one steep but better route compared to this one. Vinita was the only one on top who knew how to tie knots and other things. So She had to stay at the top. We called her to the other route which we felt was safer than the exposed traverse and asked her to descend the remaining ones. It was 6.00 PM now and darkness began to engulf the proceedings. In dark, the entire equation changes and seemingly simple route turns a tough and risky nut to crack. Some of the sacks were still lying near the mouth of exposed traverse. No one was prepared to go back to that side and in darkness it seemed double difficult. I had to make my way back and climb up and along with Shailendra and Aniket went back, collected all the sacks and made our way back to the the point where other descended from. Vinita herself had descended by then and we were four of us on the top. We lowered Digit. Mandar did a good job of guiding people down on the patch from below.

Safe descend…
It was quite dark, well past 7.00 PM and the risk of wild animals seemed more probable. We were three of us on top of the patch, Me, Shailendra and Aniket. Some stone fell from behind and the probability of some wild animal was a fearful thought. We had no where to run. We were sitting on edge of the patch with a steep fal and from behind a thick forest covered us. A wild animal entering from that side would have meant curtains for our escape routes. The fear were strong founded because while Devendra and Aniket were looking for alternate route to bypass the exposed traverse, they had come across and natural cavern with huge pugmarks of some wild animal, which would have been of a bibtya or a bear. The thought was spine chilling sitting at that position. Aniket descended next. I anchored to a tree, bowlined my self and Shailendra with two free ends of the rope. I descended and then Shailendra – both on u-loop round the tree. All of us were down the patch and safe – it was nearly 9.00 PM now. Late and dark as hell and lowering individual member over the slippery and steep patch in dark was a challenging task well accomplished and more importantly very very safely. I am quite happy we managed it so clinically and efficiently.

Night camp in the stream…
We decided to camp there for the night – in middle of a boulder ridden stream route. Everyone found suitable places for themselves  and made their bedding. Me and Kanchan made preparation for the Poha and within next 30 minutes Poha was cooked and according to everyone it was really tasty – another feather in our cap.. LOL After a stomach filling poha treat everyone cuddled in their cozy bedding and shawls for a night camp – in middle of a stream, boulder ridden, under the starry sky, with water flowing by the side, abd steep walls linind on either side in total darkness except for the glitterng stars. It was dream camp.

A days delay and family chaos…
It was Sunday night and amidst all the adventure we all were very well aware of the chaos that must have started back home in our families. But we were in no position to inform there, there was absolutely no coverage -  for a short while network came and went and that was enough to send a message to three of our families who were on top while all others had descended down – all others were down by that time and we had no chance to convey the remaining families.

Early start on Monday… Patches on the way
Next morning we started early, this time without much refreshment. It was monday, a day at office missed, worrying families and all the choas made us skip the morning tea and move ahead quickly. The village seemed closer and inching near, the boulder form changed and it was suggestive of the fact that the gradient was well lowered and gradual. We could see the mountain mass behind us rising – an illusion – rather we were descending lower The movement was brisk, but to again came a patch – patch was doable without rope, Shailendra quickly descended down followed by Devendra and Amod, but other would not have done it without rope. SO another uncoil and another series of bowlines followed. The patch took another couple of hours and it was 10.00 AM by now. All descended and safely the patch was negotiated. Moving further we came across small and big patches, but rope wasn’t required there – all that was required was utmost care and proper stepping guidance which Devendra, Vinita, Amod did very well. We negotiated some slippery patches enroute our descent. Enroute one of the most dreaded incident – a huge rock fall – loose rock falling and just escaping Omkar. That was a good indication of loose rocks and care that we needed to take while treading on the stream route. The water ponds started becoming larger and deeper and the gradient gradualized and Rahul could not resista dip, which he did. A cooler! Further ahead we had sips of lemon juice – courtsey Aniket.

Nearing village… Reaching there
Further ahead we could see man made ‘bandh’ for directing the water flow. The village was very near and in a short while, 12.00 PM by now, we reached the lower slopes of the mountain with fresh meadows in front. We crossed over the meadow, reached a paaywaat and came across the villagers. It was Kudali village. Everyone made their way along the paaywaat and within next half an hour reached Kudali village – nearly 1.00 PM. The viilage had a store and a PCO and that allowed us to inform our worrying parents back home. The delay in communication had created a different epic – dare I say epic – and that is beyon the scope of this log. The village store provided us with kurmura, farsaan, onions and the chatpat maggi sause – all ingredients made a perfect bhel to fill our tummies. Next was tea preparation and packets of Parle-G. Soe photoshots with the village kids took up further time. IN the mean while our bus driver made his way back to Kudali village -  he patiently waited for 24 hours at Pimpalwadi village till our message arrived. From Pimpalwadi to reach Kudali it took him two and half hours. It was nearly 5.00 PM as we started on our return journey towards Mumbai.

An experience unparalleled…
The bygone three days was a different journey altogether – an experience unparalleled – company cherished every second – moments unforgettable – imprints indelible! We had shared tough times and a lasting bond set in amongst all of us – through the rough and some smooth. Just as an icing on the cake we spotted a Fox just outside the Kudali village – the beautiful animal seemed to bid us farewell. An adventure was truly of its kind and a sense of accomplishment set it for completing the route which everyone prohibited us from doing, rubbished it and labelled it undoable. We did it after more than two decades, safely, with everyone jooyful and content. Kudos to one and all.

Team effort…
The team comprised of – Rohan R. Rao, Dr. Shailendra Acharya, Vinita Chhatwani, Mandar Gawade, Amod Kulkarni, Devendra Joglekar, Niraj Tiwari, Kanchan Mestry, Nikhil Wethekar, Vijay Maha, Rahul Salve, Digit Soman, Aniket Mirvankar and Omkar Mirvankar – everyone was equally responsible for making the trek successful and the way it was – Memorable.

And lastly I would like to conclude that Raireshwar-Nakhind-Aswal Dhond-Kudali route is definitely doable – we did it!