Vasota trek

The virgin forest, sunray defying thickets, the fear of wild, the chirping of birds, the charm of unseasonal rainfall, wetting of the baked earth, serene temple, quenched thirsts, satiated conscious and oh God…. let that terrifying roar be far away… this are the memories I cherish about Vasota.

Good Friday, Holi and the Sunday all lined up to set up a perfect long weekend for implementing a long distance trek plan, urging me to venture in far off places like Satara, Koyna valley or far north in the Balgan range. There are lot many forts and ranges with multiple options and fascinating routes on offer to be experienced and after much deliberations and general consensus we decided to set our feet in the thickets of the Vasota, which now falls under protected forest area.

Thursday, 20th March was it, when with our bags stuffed with ration and essentials for the next three days we set off for Satara. We were five of us from Kalyan-Dombivali. Five more persons were supposed to join us at Satara, which they did. We reached Satara at around 4 AM after an overnight bus journey and were joined by the remaining members. A total of 10 members managed to squeeze out time, pacify the families, manipulate their schedules and cherish the dream of Vasota forest range. From Satara, a bus leaves for Bamnoli at 6:15 AM and reaches Bamnoli after around an hour and half journey. We reached Bamnoli, freshened up with plateful of poha and a cup of tea for our breakfast.

Vasota, inaccessibly located far away from the roadways, has to be either accessed via a long circuitous route from Mahabaleshwar-Taople-Vasota or accessed via a very steep ascent from Kokan via Choravane or sailing for couple of waters in the huge Koyna reservoir. This is one of the pivotal factor owing to which Vasota has managed to retain its much virgin ambience in spite of the rampaging footsteps of the trekkers. The forest is very much thick, green and infested with a variety of flora and fauna, and of course the wild animals as well. The wild life in this reserve includes the Bison, Sambar, Bhekar (barking deer) and some other species of the Deer family, Wild Pigs, jugle fowl, rabbits and specially the Bear inhabits these forests. The important predators include the leopard, tiger, panther, etc. It also has its share of the flora and fauna as well as the creepy crawlies including snakes, chameleons, scorpions, etc. Most of these areas have been declared as Protected Areas / Sanctuaries under the Wildlife Conservation Act and need special permission to visit.

“Vasota fort was built by King Bhojraj II of Silhara dynasty. In 1656, Shivaji took control of the fort. There are two forts, the Juna Vasota (old Vasota) fort and the Navin Vasota (new Vasota). Juna vasota, on top of Babukhada, the second largest cliff in Maharashtra is not accessible. New Vasota fort was used to keep British prisoners, till they captured the fort.”

We chose the third option. We reached Bamnoli and after the morning wrap up we got the permission from the Forest authorities to visit Vasota for two days, dated 21st and 22nd. Earlier trekkers used to stay at Nageshwar caves after Vasota visit and descend to Choravane in Kokan. However, now the forest authorities prohibit staying at Vasota or Nageshwar. If one wishes to, one can descend down to Choravane before dark, but staying atop is prohibited. The descend Choravane is very steep and enjoyable and in stark contrast to the opposing slopes is devoid of thick vegetation.
Typical government organization it was, opened at a snail’s pace and proceeded slower. The office formalitites took nearly 45 minutes to complete and finally we embarked towards Vasota from Bamnoli at around 9.00 AM.

After a two hours diesel powered boat ride, we reached Met Indavli at the foothills of Vasota. The boat charges for the ride, irrespective of the head count are Rs 700 as on March 2008. Met Indavli is a very beautiful place located on the banks of Koyna backwaters. The forest authorities have now setup a tented accommodation, The Nirvachan Kendra at Met Indavli fort trekkers and tourists. The tent and accommodation charges are all included along with the visit permit back at Bamnoli itself. The rates as prevalent in March 2008 are 40 Rs per day per person plus other maintenance taxes. The entire trip can be a costly affair one feels, but the fact that the money is pumped in for maintenance of such beautiful forests is heartening.

From Met Indavli, it is a two hours trek to the top of Vasota. The thick forest lining the well defined mud track follows right up to the top of the fort. Treading on the boulevard, even at 12 noon, it is hard to find the sun rays hitting the earth is some areas of these forests, that’s not a hyperbole by any stretch of imagination. In the month of March, the cool breeze amidst the sweat filmed skin is a pleasure to be experienced. On the way barely 10 mins walk from the Nirvachan Kendra one comes across a small rivulet that holds potable water. This is the only water spot before reaching the top.

On the way, we unfortunately or fortunately, did not come across wild species of animals, but some beautiful bird chirps definitely greeted our ears. A bird enthusiast would have been just delighted to be there. Within two hours of a pleasure walk on an uphill terrain we reached the top. The fort walls and few rock cut steps are the traces of fortifications on the way and on the top; first we come across a dilapidated Hanumana temple with a beautiful unsheltered rock idol smeared with red standing amidst the crumbling walls.

From here a path to our left leads straight towards the Babu Kada point in 5 minutes. On the way we come across rock cut water tanks that provides potable water to the trekkers and visitor all round the year. Further ahead, the path took us to Babu Kada, second largest Kada in Maharashtra after the mighty Harishchandragad’s Kokan Kada. The Babu Kada provides an awe-inspiring view of the steep wind eroded cliff of the Juna Vasota fort, a sheer drop of more than 2000 feet straight to the abysmal depths. The remains of the fortifications atop Juna Vasota can be very clearly seen from this point and the thick forest dominating its landscape just seems so very inviting. But the density of the vegetation clearly underlines the difficult approach that one has to take to reach atop the Juna Vasota fort.

From the Hanumana temple, a path leads straight in the thickets and in a short while ends abruptly facing a steep fall into the Kokan. The landscape is just visual delight with an unnamed pinnacle in the foreground and Nageshwar catching our attention in the background. On this way, just a few steps in the forest we come across a dilapidated wada. The remains of the wada urged us to go beyond the walls and so did we. The base plinth on which the foundation of wada lies is still very solid, but the wall have given away. Except for the walls, nothing else leaves a trace for one to conclude that it must be a wada. The inside is completely filled with wild bushes and weeds. With some ruins inside and nothing else to see we just wandered making our way through the bushed and made our way back to the Hanuman temple. Inside the wada we came across pieces of what probably looked to us like a bill/Bison (Gavaa) skeleton.

A path in direction exactly opposite to Babu Kada point leads to an open plateau. On the way there is a Shankar temple which provides the only roofed shelter atop Vasota, that too not enough for accommodation. Also it is at a considerable distance from the water tank. Further ahead, the trail leads through a arched gateway and leads to the extreme end towards Nageshwar. The view from here offers a birds eye view of the entire landscape extending in the Kokan and beyond Nageshwar. The cool breeze and lowering sun made a perfect avenue for the lensmen.

We roamed around the fort and visited to most parts of the fort venturing in the thicket and wherever possible. On one side we could see the vast expanse of the Shivsagar lake and on the other side was Konkan. It was a visual delight.

As the sun lowered, we started assembling our scattered belongings and made provision for a small choolah. The twilight gave away to darkness and we all made sure that we always remained in a group, no matter what! We began our cooking preparations; a sumptuous meal including, dal, rice and potato-kanda bhaji with pickle to add flavor. The dinner preparations occupied us and with interspersed jokes and chats at our disposal basking in the warmth of the dim light that the camp fire offered the entire affair was just an experience to be cherished and remembered again and again.

Following dinner, we slept in the open place in front of the Hanuman temple and the ones who slept in the corner were a bit skeptical. Infact myself sleeping in between did not make me realize the X factor of sleeping on the edge of the thickets. We had nap with regular breaks and the impeding rain and cloud cover always saw us under heavy possibilities of being drenched. But that was not to be, thankfully.

We broke the rule that the forest official had laid by staying atop in the restricted area and had to cough up a fine of 100 Rs per head. We were well aware that trekkers do stay atop and its not a novelty, but considering the occasion of the Holi and extended weekend, the forest authorities were a bit prepared and already had considered the possibility to give us a taste of law. So 100 Rs it was, but the experience of staying atop Vasota and the satisfaction it catered is just priceless.

I would like to end on the same note:

The virgin forest, sunray defying thickets, the fear of wild, the chirping of birds, the charm of unseasonal rainfall, wetting of the baked earth, serene temple, quenched thirsts, satiated conscious and oh God…. let that terrifying roar be far away… this are the memories I cherish about Vasota.